Day 70: Monday, December 10th
Cuzco, Peru
Stayed at Healing House- Night 1

Dear Obiwan,
My dearest Jedi cat, I hope you are happy sleeping all day, playing fetch with q-tips, and snuggling with your grandparents! The next 10 days your Mama cat got some needed rest and also took Spanish lessons!

I had originally planned to head to Bolivia for 10 days but after Machu Picchu, I got sick. I had a cold and also had a tough time acclimating to the high altitude.

Today Natasha and I had an amazing breakfast at Jack’s cafe. We then found my new hostel, The Healing House, and Natasha helped me carry my stuff up the many hills we had to climb. The hostel was a few minutes from Jack’s Cafe but you have to walk up the steepest hill yet, and Natasha offered to carry my huge bag up the hill! I am so grateful Obiwan you have no idea. I was feeling sick and did not know I was actually about to be sick for a week.

Here is Natasha and her new sling from her Machu Picchu injury!:

The Healing House is a magical, healing place, young Jedi. It sits atop this hill and has a beautiful yard looking over the city. There are rooms for yoga and massage and other various healing and/or community needs. Everyone you pass smiles at you as if you were an old friend and the energy is so positive and welcoming.

After this we walked to Natasha’s hostel and said our goodbyes!

As I was walking back to my new hostel my body finally revealed it’s true pain. I started to fall a part. I was coughing, sneezing, and my head felt as if it were shrinking. I stopped at a farmacia and they gave me some random meds to help my poor Spanish description of my pain, “mi cabeza ow!” And I acted out coughing and sneezing.

Finally, I hiked up the wall to the hostel and took my first shower in 5 days, it was beyond incredible.

Then the day ended with me seeing Margaux again! She was in town for one night and even though I felt awful I had to see her since she was in Cuzco! I successfully got lost immediately and followed horrible Google maps (it’s amazing in the United States but had been awful in South America!?) and ended up walking around for 25 minutes to end up finding the restaurant was 2 minutes from my hostel.

We caught up and I told her friends at this French restaurant about the Jungle trek. After an hour I was dying and had to go. We said goodbye, again, knowing we would meet again one day!

And finally, I slept!

Day 71: Tuesday, December 11th
Cuzco, Peru
Stayed at Healing House- night 2

The next day I was feeling somewhat better. I had breakfast at Jack’s Cafe (my new favorite restaurant) and told the amazingly nice staff that I wanted to learn Spanish. They told me about a school around the corner that was a great school! After finishing my delicious cinnamon French toast (well couldn’t finish it, my appetite is all messed up right now) I went to the Spanish school.

The Spanish school is called ‘Wiracocha’ Spanish school. The woman was so nice at reception and I set up 10 hours of Spanish lessons for the next 3 days, it’s less than $10 an hour! She said I will have 2 teachers, one for 2 hours and the other for the second 2 hours! I’m so excited Obi! I hope I get so much better!

After this it was after 1pm which means it’s siesta time so half the city shuts down. I finally found a cafe that was open and it was beautiful and cozy.

As I was sitting and writing, two young men came in from the US. I asked where they we’re from and one guy said, “Philly,”

I responded, “Me too! Where?!”

Him, “well… actually the suburbs of Philly,”

Me, “I grew up in the suburbs, WHERE?!”

Him, “Glenside,”

Me, “ME TOO,” and then I told him my neighborhood and he KNEW IT. He GREW UP IN my home town of SPRINGFIELD. But didn’t go there, instead went to a private school.

BUT GET READY FOR THIS.

Him, “well, I know this is crazy but, my mom’s a teacher there, do you know Mrs. Zayner?”

WHAT. OBI. You weren’t born yet but Mrs. Zayner was one of my favorite teachers! Not only was she a great teacher but Josh (my brother who you hate with all your heart) got me into the debate/ mock government club YOUTH AND GOVERNMENT in 8th grade which I loved and was a part of for 5 years of high school! I saw his mom one a night EVERY WEEK for 5 years! WHAT A SMALL WORLD!!!

Here is a picture!:

After this I had some pretty bad pizza then went to bed early since I was still not feeling too well.

Here is the cute but not to yummy inside of the restaurant:

Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be feeling better, goodnight my Jedi!

Love, tú Madre,

Carly

Day 69: Sunday, December 9th

Stayed at Ecopackers in Cuzco, Peru

Dear Obiwan,

Here is the day. After 3 days of biking, rafting, zip-lining, and more hiking than I asked for, IT WAS TIME TO HIKE TO THE TOP OF MACHU PICCHU, OBIWAN!

I woke up a 4:00am and I don’t understand how I wasn’t ready until 4:40am, but alas, we did not head out until then. Natasha was up since 2:00am! She couldn’t sleep due to being anxious about the hike as well. Natasha also told me that last night at dinner 3 people did not have their passports which are needed to enter Machu Picchu! She said that Cassie, from England, was some how allowed in but the 2 really nice French guys WEREN’T GIVEN TICKETS. They planned to take the earliest van up and go in person and see if that helps. I REALLY HOPE THEY CAN GET IN!!!

Oh, she also said that at dinner they met the guide for Machu Picchu (NOT EDO YAYAYAYAYAY) and he said we had to be there between 6:00 and 6:30! This was such great news (plus 10 minutes Obi)!

As always, the time walking to the gate was under estimated, we were told 20 minutes but took us about 30 minutes. We finally started our accent around 5:10 a.m.?

Natasha had a rough day yesterday. She was pretty sick and the 3.5 hour hike to Aguas Calientes was really tough. She also has a way faster pace then me and hates hiking so each hike she was ahead of me but dying as well.

I told her not to worry and we parted right away at the beginning of the hike.

I was alone only for a few minutes. The hike was a tight zig-zag path UP. Just steep, but NOT AS STEEP AS COLCA CANYON, because nothing is as steep as that hike from hell.

But it was steep none the less and I met some really nice people who were at my walking pace, we would pass each other back and forth and one of us would rest, then the other would pass, and we all would take turns motivitating each other, “you can do it! You got this!’ Etc.

Also around 10 minutes into my hike I met Brian, a really nice guy from California. He told me about all the hikes he has been doing all over the world and South America! He was obviously a very fit and athletic person, BUT HE STAYED WITH ME. And would cheer me on and we would make each other laugh. He also acknowledged HOW DIFFUCLT the incline was and I just felt so grateful because the last 4 days have been so many people saying “oh it’s not too hard,” blah blah blah. It was everything I needed and more. I had been mostly hiking alone this whole fricken trip and I don’t mind, but I think my RAGE for our awful guide made it not the best hiking experience. But finally I was not alone and with someone who had similar humor to me and who was cheering me on.

And FINALLY at 6:23 AM WE DID IT! I made it to the top Obi and WITH SOME TIME TO SPARE! I’m so proud of myself, I didn’t realize how good it would feel to hike it and man, it felt so good to finally reach the top! I found my group and Natasha said she arrived 10 minutes before me and almost everyone else about 10 minutes before her.

The first thing was the really nice girl, Desirée, from Sweden said “congrats you did it!” Which felt so good. Then Noelle, a really nice and funny girl from California said, “put on a coat you have no idea how cold it is YOU WILL FREEZE.” But interestingly enough, I was not cold at all and never felt cold. Natasha’s from RUSSIA and I run hot when I exercise so, we didn’t put our jackets on and it was completely fine. Also, we just climbed the top of Machu Picchu! Let’s BASK IN THAT FOR A SECOND!!!

Also, Brian and I hoped we would have the same tour group but we weren’t. He also was climbing Waynu Picchu, which iy had NO IDEA that you need to book this 3 months in ADVANCE. At first I was bummed that I did not have the 1 hour hike to the top top of Waynu Picchu where you get an amazing 360 degree view of Machu Picchu. But…quickly that disappointment faded with my body aches and heaving breathing. NEXT TIME OBI, I think next time (cause I definetly want to come back!) I will take the van up to Machu Picchu then hike Waynu Picchu! But also Obi…I’ve been told that there are these steps that if you mis-step you will just PLUNGE TO YOUR DEATH, and you’ve seen me walk or just exist and I fall all the time so, maybe this isn’t in my cards?

After this our tour began, it was about…2 hours? Our guide was amazing! I was also so grateful to be with Natasha, we both were GLEAMING and smiling and just so proud and happy to be at the top. Most of our group just looked, content? It was so confusing, GUYS, WE ARE AT MACHU PICCHU, SMILE! But luckily my partner was Natasha who kept turning to me with a big smile and saying, “We did it! LOOK!”

From left to right: tú madre, Natasha, Desire, and Noelle

We were also so grateful for the advice from Matt and Steve who told us to take the train back…because most of our group too the bus back which meant…get ready…they had to hike down the mountain and hike the 3.5 HOURS of the train tracks back! I would just have thrown my stuff on the ground and cried.

But we had the train! For some reason our train was at 7 while the other train folk were at 2 or 4? So…we were at Machu Picchu at 6:20 and had 13 hours! But nothing bothered us. We WERE HERE! And it was gorgeous.

Machu Picchu is incredible Obiwan. I…ignorantly (glad to know I wasn’t the only one) thought it was similar to Guatape, a bunch of steps and some cool stones on top of a mountain. But it’s a CITY. And it was so beautiful and fascinating. I don’t understand how they did this! Also, it’s so awful how they had to abandon it due to the Spanish conquerors.

After we said our goodbyes to some out of group people who were going on the bus we just relaxed on Machu Picchu for a few hours. I also saw Brian! He was leaving for Waynu Picchu and looked so excited.

We also saw A BUNCH OF LLAMAS. They just live there and have no fear of humans and will march up to you searching for food. We took some great pictures with the llamas!

After this we OF COURSE took the bus down, the other 2 train goers, Noelle and Desirée, walked back to Aguas Calientes, but…just NO WAY. Why? There’s a bus!

We then relaxed in Aguas Calientes for HOURS. We tried to get an earlier train but it was all booked. We then saw Noelle, Desirée, at this beautiful Cafe with a view and joined them. We a great time chatting and laughing about our last 4 days. OH we also saw Cassie and she told us that they saw the French guys while hiking down!!! They made it!!! We all were so happy for them.

Oh here’s a random picture from me and Natasha at a restaurant in Aguas Callientes that asks where you’re from then gives you your countries flag! Russia and USA, haha!

7:00pm finally happened and we were off on our 2 hour train ride to the next van to take us back to Cuzco. The train was beautiful! It was the most beautfiul train I have ever been on. They also gave us snacks and coffee or tea! Sadly the train was horribly rocky and it made Natasha’s sickness kinda come back, she was okay, but just didn’t feel well. While on the train the people who sat across form us were these really nice French men, maybe in their 50’s or 60’s? One of them was a Psychologist! We talked about how to travel or not travel and having a private practice. He gave me some needed clarity I needed because I keep thinking about my future and wondering how do I achieve my professional goals in the next few years and also travel again?

After the train we were at this train station at 9:00pm at night and had little faith that our van existed. But, it existed Obi! There was a woman yelling Natasha and get ready- my name was ‘KARLI ESTACION’ we saw it on a sign and laughed so hard!

Finally we were in the van, a small passenger van with 2 seats in the front. We sat in the front and the driver was so nice. He had his window down so it was cold but he gave us a blanket and we could tell he was exhausted by his face and the fact he kept popping coca leaves for energy. But whenever a song came on that we knew he would turn it up and we would sing along.

2 hours later, 11:15pm or so we were back at our hostel. I was supposed to move to a new hostel but they weren’t answering and honestly I was grateful because I couldn’t imagine going any further. Natasha somehow lost her card yesterday and was quite panicked but I told her OF COURSE not to worry and paid for the hostel. She said she will pay back and I totally trust her.

Lastly, OUR 10 PERSON ROOM HAD NO ONE IT. #blessed! I was so grateful that it was just us and then we both died and fell asleep in the comfy bunk beds of Ecopackers.

Goodnight my lamb!

Love tu Madre,

Carly

Day 68: Saturday, December 8th

Day 3 of Machu Picchu Jungle Trek

Dear Obiwan,

The day began with ZIP-LINING. I love zip-lining so much Obi and today was just phenomenal! There were 4 zip lines, the first 3 were from MOUNTAIN TO MOUNTAIN over a river!!! It was exhilarating! They said the first 3 ‘no upside down or tricks’ but said that the last one we could. I let go a few times and leaned back a little but we had to STOP OURSELVES. Which I don’t think I’ve ever had to do before. Each of us were given these huge gloves with rubber padding and THIS IS HOW YOU STOP! You wait for the guy to give you a sign which is either ‘stop’ like a normal stop or SUPER STOP which you put one hand in back of the thing and one in front.

I arrived at the last zip which was the longest. I asked if I was allowed to lean back and go upside-down. The guy thought I asked SOMETHING ELSE and goes “yeah uh okay upside down? One sec,” and waves over another guy. They then tell me “don’t hold onto to anything or do anything until the guy tells you too,” I then am clipped to this other man, who then proceeds to FLIP ME UPSIDE DOWN. So I was like, backwards spread eagle. THEN WE FLEW AND I FLEW UPSIDE DOWN WITH NO HANDS or anything holding onto anything and fly across the zip line!!! It was amazing!!!

Here’s a video:

(Side note Obiwan, not like IT MATTERS, but we saw Carolina later and she said she did 8 ZIP LINES and said they went UPSIDE DOWN AND SUPERMAN and a million other cool things that we did not do. So obviously they got the fancy Jungle Trek.)

After this amazing zip-line we…had… to hike! They just lied when they told us at the agency the only hike was day 2. We had to hike 3 fricken hours to our final stop, Aguas Calientes. Unlike our death hike yesterday, this time we had to carry all of our stuff. I don’t understand WHAT I brought but my bag weighed the weight of a 10 year old child. We were following the train tracks and I died. As always, I was last. As always Edo the jerk guide passed me angrily, and as always I would catchup to the group and then Edo would guide them to leave the moment I arrived.

BUT, I MADE IT. And it was quite beautiful! And I was so ignorant, I thought this town was going to be some small town at the bottom of Machu Picchu but it was a big happening place! With ATM’S and restaurants! I was STARVING due to the meals all being pretty gross. So I went and had some mediocre pizza but it honestly, in that moment, was the best pizza of my life.

After showering and relaxing it was time for a meeting then dinner with the group. I was so exhausted and full I planned not eat dinner with the group.

The schmuck guide Edo told us in the meeting that we can either walk the 45 minute or so steep hike from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu or we can take a van, and when he said this, STARED AT ME and widened his eyes saying non-verbally ‘yes you Carly, you better take the van.’ I stared at him back and said that I was going to hike, it didn’t really matter, but I just wanted to for some reason. Some people were like “it will be worth it!” Some said, “you have to!” Others said “no way!” But my heart thought, YES, I CAN DO IT. I told Edo that since everyone was starting at 430, I will start at 330 to be safe and take it slow.

Since he is a schmuck his response was a stone-faced, “no.”

I felt my face turn red immediately, I just was done with this jerk. “WHAT, WHY, I’M DOING IT.”

Edo, “ha no, you can’t.”

I was two seconds from crying or screaming when the nice other guide who didnt’ speak much English explained that the gates don’t open until 5am, so the earliest you can leave is 430 to walk the 20 minutes from here to the entrance.

OH THANKS OTHER GUIDE (who I forget his name) Why couldn’t Edo just say that? OH BEDAUSE HE IS A SCHMUCK.

So I was determined at this point. My hatred for this man and that he didn’t believe in me even more fueled my decision to walk in the morning. He said a million times, “you have to be there between 6:00am and 6:20am, WE WILL LEAVE WITHOUT YOU.” This gave me so much anxiety you have no idea Obi. I will have ONLY 20 MINUTES TO SPARE.

This still ddidn’t matter, I AM HIKING EDO, and I am going to make it! He also told us then that WE HAVE NO GUIDE FOR THIS MORNING TREK. Which just made NO SENSE to me and Natasha. The crucial most important and supposedly steepest part of our trip…we have to do alone? WHAT DID WE PAY FOR WHY DO THE GUIDES EVEN EXIST.

Also, some really nice people from my group told me during this interaction that I can do it and that it isn’t supposed to be “too hard.” I really appreciated them!

Finally I left the group and tried to go to bed around 7. Sadly my anxiety did not let me sleep too well but I tried to get some sleep before MACHU PICCHU!!!

Goodnight my Jedi,

Love tu Madre,

Carly

P.S.- Happy Chanukah Obiwan!

Day 67: Friday, December 7th

Day 2 of Machu Picchu Jungle Trek

Dear Obiwan,

Oh my Jedi, today was rough. What’s interesting is that most of the day is a blur to me, I actually don’t remember most of it. My brain just blocked it out! I think my brain is going into survival mode and it knows in a few weeks I am HIKING THE W-TREK IN TORRES DEL PAINE and it just wants me to forget this hike. What I do remember is our guide is an asshole and hating hills.

WAIT: LOOK how our morning started, with these gansta turkeys!:

In summary, the hike was up and around and through the jungle in these mountains. Some of the hike was the actual Inca trail!

At one point we stopped at this beautiful place for rest. We sat down and our guide showed us the most popular drink, Inca Tequila, which was in a bottle with a DEAD SNAKE IN IT, look:

We all were given a shot, if we wanted, and of course I took it Obi, when in Machu Picchu! After this we had a little bit of food and admired the MACAW AND PARROTS. About 20 minutes into relaxing here we saw our OLD HIKING CREW, Carolina, the Argentinian couple and David! We were all so excited to see each other…and yet again, they were having a VIP EXPERIENCE. I want to just think that they paid more and had a better agency, that must be it? But they got soooo much more food and drinks and their guide painted their faces with this natural paint stuff from a fruit!

Then we were off back to our hike. Let me tell you about the worst guide of my life- EDO. In the beginning of day he told us that there were 2 guides, so ONE WILL ALWAYS BE in the front AND IN THE BACK. And Obi, somehow this new group was almost all younger people, like early 20’s, who were super active and hiked really quickly. I honestly never saw them stop to take a fricken picture. I on the other hand was going to take my time and not kill myself, which meant I was almost always last. I also would be taking pictures and enjoying whatever parts of the hike I could enjoy.

The most upsetting thing was this guide, Edo. Even writing about it right now I am getting HEATED. He had his WALKING STICKS so it’s already easier for him and he would walk behind me…for about 5 minutes and would HUFF AND PUFF- just sigh loudly and angrily. Then after about 5 minutes he would pass me. Sometimes it would be me and this reallllly nice and amazing couple, I think from Chile? But Edo told us that someone will always be behind, THE AGENCY TOLD ME THAT DON’T WORRY ABOUT THE HIKE A GUIDE WILL ALWAYS BE WITH YOU. And lies all lies. Edo was such a jerk, I am going to the agency for sure and maybe even writing a review on Trip Advisor. I did not feel safe, I felt like a burden and was also in pain and dying, then on top of that feeling that way from Edo? Also, GET READY FOR THIS- I was probably about 5-10 minutes behind everyone, which ISN’T THAT BAD. And every hour or so I would catch up to them because they were given a break, and then the moment Edo the asshole would see me coming he would tell everyone to get up…SO that means I would never have a break. And YES, this makes so much sense right Obi? Let the SLOWEST PERSON NEVER HAVE A BREAK. Because obviously I DON’T NEED IT! I am still so angry. I felt awful and that should be the opposite of how you feel on a hike.

In the end, I DID IT OBI. The hike was miserably hot, lots of up hill and sometimes down, but mostly up or slightly even. Also, sometimes you weren’t in the jungle or trees and when the sun beated down on you it was awful. I think I have to give up my hatred of how I look in hats and buy one.

Oh wait look at my favorite part of the hike! This little bridge gondola thing you had to rice in to crossover the river!!!:

Initially we made it to our next hostel, it was nicer than the first! No cockroaches and A HOT SHOWER. We all had dinner at this place where they gave us more Inka Tequila. I was sitting with the couples from Chile and there was this one couple, Angeles and her boyfriend and they were JUST THE BEST. So nice, funny, warm, and welcoming, it felt like we were old friends. We all drank and had a great time!

This night was supposed to be the big party night I guess? The town had 2 clubs and a bunch of people wanted to go out. I was dying from exhaustion AND it started to rain. The night ended with me at first going with the small group of people to the ‘club’ and I stood there for 30 seconds and left.

The day was tough Obiwan but it’s over now and some parts of the hike were incredibly beautiful and fun. But I don’t think I’m an 8 hour hiker type of gal, Obi…And I will have to be for Patagonia so who knows, people can change.

Goodnight my lamb,

Love tu Madre,

Carly

Day 66: Thursday, December 6th

Day 1 of Machu Picchu Jungle Trek

Dear Obiwan,

OBI the day has finally come! Today was day 1 of my 4 day journey to Machu Picchu. The nice Russian girl, Natasha, from my hostel in Cuzco I was telling you about in my last entry decided to join me on this trek! I was so excited to not do this journey completely alone. If you remember Obi, I am doing the JUNGLE TREK, which is a 4 day a 3 night adventure packed journey to Machu Picchu.

The Jungle Trek is an alternative option for those seeking thrilling adventures and also for those who don’t want to hike endlessly. The trip is 4 days and 3 nights, the first day is downhill mountain biking and white water rafting! The second day is a 21 km (or 68, 897 feet or 13 miles) HIKE. Then day 3 is zip-lining! And lastly day 4 is MACHU PICCHU.

Side note, I found out during the trip there was a 3 day and 2 night version of this that is CHEAPER and just CUTS OUT THE HIKE. I don’t understand why I would ever choose this.

Anyways Obiwan, the day began with a horrible nights sleep and then a pretty gross breakfast at the hostel. After this we left most of our stuff at the hostel and the van was punctual and we were off!…To a 3 hour van ride that we did not know about.

The van was taking us to the top of a mountain, but on the road. There were only 5 of us and our tour guide David. It was me, Natasha, this super nice Argentinian couple, and this amazing woman Carolina from Colombia.

The mountain biking began by us having to first put on our ‘gear.’ The gear included knee and shin guards, a top that velcro’s across you that has shoulder pads and elbow pads, and massive helmets. I somehow was the last to put gear on and every piece of gear was too big. The guide just super tightly wrapped everything and told me I was fine. This was oh so comforting. The helmet made me the most anxious for as it was too big, but, alas, what was I going to do? I had to do the biking!

Oh also Obi, I FORGOT TO MENTION, that the weather was atrocious. It was COLD, RAINING, and so cloudy at the top of this mountain!

So the ride was supposed to be about 2.5 hours. The whole ride was downhill so the most important thing was that your BREAKS WORKED. We began and the visibility was so poor that you could only see about 10 feet ahead of you! That meant that you’re flying down this mountain, on the main road, and all of a sudden you see head lights, 10 feet away BLASTING it’s horn at you. It was sometimes really fun Obi but the cold, the rain, and the terror made it…just not that great. Also there were so many just open vistas that I knew must be AMAZING to look at but all you could see was WHITENESS, white clouds forever.

There were only a few times where I slid and it was in the beginning when I was nervous about this windy-ass road down A MOUNTAIN with trucks appearing out of thin air. But I quickly learned that it is best to just let your bike fly and on the tight curves just lightly break a little before. Also there were many points where the road was near some forest and the road was SLIGHTLY FLOODED so you just hope that you don’t slide and slip during these lovely parts. At one point Natasha break-ed and almost fell and I was behind her and went to stop but then David and the Argentinians were right behind me so I almost caused a crash and just had to keep going. ALSO, Obi it was a steep mountain with this road slapped on the side of it, so there were cliffs everywhere. David told us to stick to the right, since the cliff was on the left, BUT HALFWAY THROUGH THE CLIFF WAS ON RIGHT. So if you stayed on the right and then made tight turns it was terrifying, I ignored David’s instructions at this point and stayed in the middle left.

About 20 minutes later David was leading and had us all pull over at this random shop. He took off his helmet and referenced with his body how he was soaking wet and freezing and told us, “we’re going to stop here, I didn’t know the weather was going to be this bad, it’s too wet and cold!” Everyone was at this stop EXCEPT FOR NATASHA. A few minutes after I arrived we saw Natasha flying down the mountain and David and all of us screamed and waved her down, GOOD THING SHE HEARD US, what would of happened if she didn’t?

Well Natasha joins us and looked very shaken up. She tells us that she ALMOST FELL OFF THE CLIFF. It was of course when the cliff switched to the right side, she said that she skidded and flew over her hand bars onto the ground and slid and stopped JUST BEFORE THE CLIFF. She almost died! After about 10 minutes of warming up at this stop our van arrived, but right before we left I looked down at some tattered clothing on Natasha, and suddenly I noticed that her pants WERE IN SHREDS. She just bought these pants for 70 soles (about $20 USD)! She was wearing legging under and just ripped the pants one more time and they fell off her body. She was pretty bruised up and her elbow was killing her. She asked our guide if her arm was okay and his excellent medical abilities he poked it twice and a said, “not broken.”

After this we had a ride to WHITE-WATER RAFTING! We were told to join a different group of people, that was going to be ‘our new group’ (which we did not understand), and Carolina and the Argentinian couple didn’t go rafting.

Finally we were off white-water rafting, and Obi it was SO MUCH FUN. I’ve been lucky and got to go rafting at sleep over camp (Capital Camps shout out!) every summer for 8 summers. But I haven’t been in a while and as always, loved it so much! I think the rapids were level 2 and 3? I think it goes up to 4 or 5, so right in the middle.

At one point they said if we wanted to we could jump off a rock into a calmer part of the river. As I was climbing the large rocks up to the jumping place the same feeling I felt 5 years ago when Alana and I jumped off a waterfall in Semuc Chempey, Guatemala and I got vertigo, cried, and almost couldn’t do it, but I did in the end- I felt that same feeling. Just imminent death. And the directions were “jump far, if you don’t jump far enough you will land on those rocks”…and obviously DIE.

I watched everyone go and just felt in my GUT- NO, CARLY, YOU CAN’T JUMP, and Obi you know me, I can’t jump if my life depended on it, and I just, and now I feel 100% okay turning around and walking down, which is what I did. I felt a little shameful walking back but then it faded and I didn’t feel shame or regret. I know some people might think ‘you’ll regret it if you don’t!’ And I can confidently say, I don’t regret it. And I learned something about me, I am not a jumper. I hate it. I hated it in Guatemala but that was higher than this jump! I feel like, I’ve done it, and I am fine never jumping off a cliff or rock or whatever EVER AGAIN. Unless you can just free fall and not have to depend on your jumping and aiming abilities.

The rest of rafting was amazing. We watched a few people fall off one raft but our raft was amazing! At one point we saw a bridge and there was CAROLINA! She took pictures look:

After our amazing day we headed back to our hostel. And here is when things changed, kinda for the worst but not really. So, we get back to this beautiful hostel and David tells us, “oh, uh, this isn’t your hostel…I’ll take you to yours,” Natasha and I ask questions and David just is stuttering and DOESN’T ANSWER.

He walks us up the road to this horrible hostel that looked like a motel in middle America where you get MURDERED. We ask him feeling upset and confused, “WHAT’S HAPPENING,” then he DUMPS us Obi, David tells us that “this is your new group and new guide, so uh, you will be with them from now on.”

Me, “What? David! We like you! And we like our group! We had a traumatizing bike ride with them we are attached! Why?”

David, “uh, because, uh, you speak English, and they speak Spanish,” this was just a lie, half our group spoke Spanish and our new tour guide just spoke both languages.

He then dumped us, and left. We look in our room and find 2 cockroaches and the shower was ice cold. Things were LOOKING UP.

After this we met our new group, a lot of Americans, some English and Aussies, then a bunch of Spanish speakers. Mostly everyone seemed nice. After dinner we went to sleep with our two cockroach roommates.

Goodnight my Jedi,

Love tu Madre,

Carly

P.S.- Since I didn’t take any photos today (Carlonia did!) here is one of you, I miss you so much!

Day 64: Tuesday, December 4th

Cuzco, Peru

Stayed at Ecopackers Hostel- night 2

Dear Obiwan,

Today I felt a little better than yesterday, however I was really feeling the altitude! My heart was beating very quickly and I barely had an appetite. I had an alright breakfast at the hostel and went exploring Cuzco! I had 2 missions in mind: find Healing House and book Machu Picchu Jungle Trek!

On the way to mission number 1, in one of the main squares there was a special units of the military display going on. Including the dog force! Here are some pictures:

After this random display I found the Healing House that Josh (my brother who you hate with all of your heart and try to maul whenever he is around), told me about. Healing House is a center for Yoga, Reiki, massage, and other healing therapies! The place was beautiful and had such incredible vibes immediately! I asked about staying there and the amazing woman at the front desk, Emma, said that I could stay next week after I returned from Machu Picchu! So I booked 6 nights for next week and COULD NOT WAIT. I also booked a message for tomorrow and ALSO CAN NOT WAIT. I am in so much pain from head to toe!

Here are some photos of what it’s like to walk around Cuzco:

After walking around some more I found a restaurant and had the worst pasta carbonara of my life…Itay taught me how to make this and I just, I just don’t understand how it tasted the way it tasted? Maybe it was also because I was sick? But the server was definitely offended and I just said that I was sick and had no appetite, which was partially true!

After my gross lunch I found the travel agency Matt and Steve told me about and booked my Jungle Trek to Machu Picchu for this Thursday (in 2 days)! Finally back at the hostel me and the really sweet Russian girl, Natasha started talking and talking. First – SMALL WORLD, kinda- the guys I met in Arequipa who told me about the Jungle Trek agency they used- Matt and Steve were just hanging out with Natasha here in Cuzco!

After freaking out about both meeting Matt and Steve she told me that she was traveling the world to volunteer and explore. She told me that she was volunteering at a wild animal reserve for a few weeks and loved it and it sounded like very hard work (making cages! Amongst other things). We also spoke at length about her dilemma. She was volunteering for 3 weeks right now at a school. She was frustrated because she was told she would be teaching English and having a role in the school, however she was only sitting and either doing nothing or the young kids would braid her hair. She was taking an awful 2 hour bus to and from this place to work for 2 hours. Talking with her seemed to really help give her some needed clarity on this trying situation, it felt good to help :).

Day 65: Wednesday, December 5th

Cuzco, Peru

Stayed at Ecopackers Hostel- night 3

Obi today I went to Jack’s Cafe for the first time. It was about an 8 minute walk from Ecopackers in the historic neighborhood. My dad and brother told me I HAD to go there and I AM SO GRATEFUL. It was the first breakfast in…possibly my entire trip with REAL AMAZINGLY DELICIOUS TOAST. Toast that is THICK and buttery and just so delicious it was emotional. It was both white and wheat bread. The staff were warm and friendly as well!

Oh ANOTHER RANDOM military display going on in the square again?!:

After my healing breakfast I had my healing massage from Gregory at the Healing House…Obi it was one of the best massages of my entire life. He has a history of working with people with disabilities in massage back in Canada and we spoke at length about our past jobs. He also told me that after getting divorced he was traveling through South America and then when he wasn’t looking or meaning too…FELL IN LOVE WITH SOMEONE FROM HERE! It was such a romantic story. Besides great conversation he helped my chronic pain immensely and some of my random new pains.

I wanted to have some chocolate at ‘Museo del cafe’ that I saw walking around that looked like it had amazing views and amazing chocolate cake!

Here are some pictures of the cake, the view, and oh finger update picture!:

The cappuccino was amazing but the cake not too much, very dry, sadly. I might try something else another time because this place should have amazing chocolate, I think they just had an off day.

Alright my lamb, I need to REST BEFORE the start of my MACHU PICCHU Jungle Trek tomorrow!

Love you Obiwan,

Carly

Day 61: Saturday, December 1st

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Day 62: Sunday, December 2nd

Stayed at Cozy Hostel in Arequipa, Peru

Obi today marks 2 months of my trip! I can’t believe it has been 2 months!

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Well today was a slightly sad day, me and Margaux were parting. She was heading back to Lima and I was heading to Cuzco! We had a nice breakfast at our cozy ( 😉 ) hostel. I then met some nice guys from England who just returned from Cuzco, there names were Matt and Steve. They told me all about Jungle Trek (which is the Machu Picchu trek I was planning to do) and recommended the cheapest and best travel agency. They were only there for 10 minutes but were extremely helpful! Later today we bought some incredibly comfortable and beautiful alpaca sweaters and gloves!

Some first aid for my feet!

Oh, OBI, at lunch I held a lamb!!!:

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Day 63: Monday, December 3rd

Left Arequipa to go to Cuzco!

Stayed at Ecopackers in Cuzco – night 1

Well the day has come to say goodbye to Margaux. We had flights around the same time, but…Obi get ready for ANOTHER issue. Somehow I bought my ticket for NEXT MONDAY. I don’t understand what happened. I might have been delirious when I bought the ticket? Well it was fine, I could buy a ticket for a plane that just left a few hours later than the one I thought I had. Sadly the ticket was more expensive than the one I found, but it’s fine, at least I didn’t need to wait another day or something. I also started to get rapidly ill as I was waiting for 4 hours for my next plane. I don’t know if it was the sketchy breakfast food or what but my body and stomach were deteriorating.

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Anywho, finally we had to say our goodbyes. I am so grateful for meeting Margaux and my time with her. We got along so well and her Spanish speaking skills were so helpful. I can’t imagine my passport fiasco without her and hope our paths cross one day again soon!

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My flight was a connecting flight to Lima then to Cuzco. I somehow left my REI raincoat on the first plane, I think I have just become delirious and out of it and need rest. Colca Canyon just killed me. Don’t worry Obi! Your mamma is fine. I told security and 10 minutes later someone was running over to me with my coat!

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My last flight felt like a Curb Your Enthusiasm episode but unlike Larry David I just said NOTHING. I had the middle seat (which I never ever choose, but welcome to cheap flights :/). I was in between two men who BOTH WERE BLASTING THEIR cellphones without headphones. I’m sorry, but is it just me Obi? Or does everyone in the universe think it is NOT OKAY TO BLAST PHONES ON A PLANE. Have you heard of headphones? It’s an airplane, if you TALK too loudly it is disturbing to others. But there I was, feeling sicker and sicker by the second, wanting to sleep more than anything, with someone watching The Soporano’s in Espanol (which was actually quite interesting to watch) on my left and the guy on my right blasting YouTube videos.

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Finally, hours later, I was in Cuzco, Peru! My stomach was killing, my feet were bleeding, my ankles, calves and thighs were imploding, but I was finally in a hostel. I met the 2 people in my new dorm room, Peter and Natasha and quickly took a menagerie of meds and finally slept!

Here is a meme my Dad sent to our family chat it cheered me up!:

Goodnight my Jedi,

Love tu Madre,

Carly

Day 59: Thursday, November 29th

Here’s Colca the doggy (WE HAVE CREATIVE NAME IDEAS, I KNOW):

The views were SO breathtaking! But, it didn’t matter in the end for me, but for now, look!:

Around 4 hours in we met 2 nice women from Holland who told us that instead of staying in Tapay or San Juan Chucho, you could stay in San Galle and leave tomorrow, which would make our hike 2 days instead of 3. Margaux turned to me and asked if I was okay with making our hike 2 days instead of 3 and I told her that I had been thinking for about 2 hours ‘man, I don’t need to to do this for 3 days!’ And to my relief, she had been thinking the exact same thing!

SIDE NOTE- COLCA THE DOG HAS BEEN WITH US THE WHOLE TIME. He would run ahead at times and then be waiting for us in the SHADE. Or would sometimes seem to die and just jump off the cliff but actually was just running around having a good ol’ time.

So with some new excited energy about not having to hike for an additional day we soldiered on. We had lunch in a small village, one of the only places we saw with people living and a sign about lunch. The place was beautiful, the grass was perfectly cut and the restaurant sat on the edge of a cliff looking down into the canyon. The place was owned by a small old man who smiled brightly whenever he spoke or listened. He gave us the menu, ‘sopa, alpaca y arroz.’ Margaux and I said we did not need the soup, we were dying of heat strokes at this point, and the only other menu item was…ALPACA LOIN.

ANYWHO- We also arrived going the wrong way somehow too, we somehow arrived in the backyard of an Ecolodge, we were not on the main road. I was not turning around, I did not CARE that we were entering through a back yard, we were alive and that is all that mattered. We also randomly were at the same place the group of guys were at. We asked how much for a double room, $15 a person and we took it. Margaux jumped in the shower and I looked at the beautiful pool with a waterfall pouring into it and changed into my bathing suit then ran and jumped into the pool!

Day 56: Flight cancelled

Dear Obiwan,

Today we left our beach town Mancora and were off to Arequipa, Peru! Arequipa is a small mountain town in Peru. It neighbors the 2nd largest canyon in the world, Colca Canyon, which me and Margaux plan to hike the next day!

We arrived to the airport to yet, another ISSUE WITH TRAVEL. Today’s issue was that…ready Obi? OUR FLIGHT WAS CANCELED. And we were not informed due to us booking it online through another sight.

Obi, calm down, don’t freak out! All was well. We just went to the bus terminal and booked the NICEST BUS YET- Cruz Del Sol, which has seats that recline into a BED and they FEED YOU DINNER AND BREAKFAST. AND they give you a blanket and a pillow! So, we took a 15 hour night bus that had NO STOPS and I slept for a few hours, which is good for me! (Since sleeping on buses is so hard for me, as you know!)

Day 57: Tuesday, November 27th

Arequipa, Peru

Stayed at Cozy Hostel

Today was a rest day. We arrived by bus in the afternoon and found out hostel, Cozy Hostel. I then went to Serpost and FINALLY MAILED back my extra stuff to America. In case anyone is wondering, FedEx and DHL do not accept USED things. So I couldn’t use them, I had to use the national post, and it seemed very secure! I did have to buy my packages and tape from an old lady outside on the street but, she seemed official some how too!

Then we went to bed, exhausted!

Day 58: Wednesday, November 28th

Arequipa, Peru

Stayed at Cozy Hostel

Today we had breakfast at the hostel and explored our new beautiful city! We walked to Mirador Yanahuara which was pretty, here are some photos:

After Yanahura, some writing, and lunch, we went to the famous convent.

It was so beautiful Obi! There weren’t any nuns though? I guess it is just and old convent, historic! Look!:

In the evening we packed for our Colca Canyon hike tomorrow!

Goodnight my Jedi,

Love tu Madre,

Carly

Sunday, November 25th

Stayed at Palosanto Hostel (Night 6)

Dear Obiwan,

Obi today was my first day to relax in 3 days! I was finally not sick and not diving, just a day to chill. I had a lovely chill day wondering around Máncora. It is a pretty beach town with such a chill beach vibe. Lots of small stores with bathing suits and white beautiful lace dresses to pull over your bathing suit. I bought some cheap beach dresses and headed back to Spondylous eventually to finish the videos and take my test!

Here is me in one of my new blue dresses are the hostel:

After this I met up with Margaux and Vito on the beach. It was almost sunset and we walked up the beach a little across some rocks to watch the sunset!

Here are some sunset photos Obi:

After this I had to go back to the shop and go over every single answer I got wrong on the test to make sure I really understood how to dive! Juan was helpful and funny and also very serious at times.

AND FINALLY, 4 days later Obiwan Kenobi…I am a DIVER! I have my PADI OPEN WATER CERTIFICATION!

Ah I haven’t felt this proud of myself in so long. I don’t know if I have every achieved a certificate that involves something PHYSICAL. I have a Master’s and LPC which I am so proud of too, but there is another element added to this that involved me being athletic and physical!

Ah Obi I wish you could dive with me, but, seeing your intense hatred of water that probably won’t work…except you do drink water from the sink or bathtub and stick you WHOLE HEAD under becoming soaked sooo, maybe you’re a diving cat in the making?!

After this me and Juan had a beer at this small beer store next to the dive shop. Throughout the whole time we were there the owners son kept talking to Juan and eventually was playing and talking to me, he was funny and adorable. It made me miss my nannying days! Eventually we were both exhausted and said our goodbyes.

Well I’m somehow exhausted again Obiwan, goodnight from your now DIVER MADRE!

Love,

Carly